You do not have to measure anything — we survey every job ourselves before we quote, at no charge. But a rough figure lets us give you a ballpark over the phone before we drive out, which is useful if you are still deciding. All you need is a steel tape, a pen and five minutes.
Draw a rough outline of the floor as seen from above. It does not need to be to scale — it just needs every wall on it.
Measure wall to wall at the widest point in each direction, and write the figure on the matching wall of your sketch. Metres to two decimals is ideal, for example 4.25 m.
An L-shaped room, or one with an alcove or a bay, is far easier as two or three rectangles. Measure each block separately and label them A, B and C.
Length times width gives the square metres of each block. Add the blocks together for the room total.
Add about ten percent to your total for cuts and wastage — more if the floor is going down on a diagonal or in a herringbone pattern, which uses noticeably more material.
Blinds are quoted per window, not per square metre, so give us a width and a drop for each one — in millimetres, which is how they are manufactured.
Measure the opening in three places — top, middle and bottom. Old walls are rarely square, and the difference matters.
From the top of the opening to the sill, or to where you want the blind to end if it is hanging past the sill.
Tell us whether the blind must sit inside the window recess or mount on the wall in front of it. This changes the finished size.
Handles, burglar bars, deep sills and air-conditioner pipes all affect what will fit. Mention them or send a photo.
One caution: use your figures for a ballpark only. We take the manufacturing measurements ourselves, because a blind cut to a customer's measurement cannot be returned if the opening turns out not to be square.